Picnic on a Volcano
We fully expected today to include lunch at Mariella's, and maybe meet them and the friend group, after the theater, in Catania tonight for pizza. They had planned this outing to see Shakespeare's "The Tempest," before they knew we'd be in town. Vincenzo couldn't get additional tickets.
So we lounged in our PJs, as everyone does on Sundays, sometimes all day.
I got a message from Elena around 8:30, asking, simply, "Hi Karen good morning we are going to spend the morning and lunch at Etna with some panini. Would you like to join?"
I ascertained she did not mean leaving immediately. Departure is at 10:00, so I had time to shower and dress in layers (as they say, "come una cipolla;" like an onion). It's hot in Biancavilla, but it gets cool the higher up Etna you go.
Elena said she wanted to get some cuttings from the forest, to make Christmas centerpieces.
We all piled into the car at 10:00, and it was good to see Giuseppe. He's been working so much, we haven't had the opportunity to spend much time with him. He's learning a few American phrases here and there. Today he told the boys, "Jump in the car!" and then chuckled at himself after saying it.
I brought a big bottle of water, plastic cups, napkins, and some thematic Etnaean wine. I asked Giuseppe if wine would be ok to bring? He gave the bottle I selected two thumbs up, then asked if I had a corkscrew. Yes, I said. You have one? he asked again, motioning the twisting effort. Yes. Giuseppe, I have one. Elena interjected, He needs proof of everything. So I opened my purse and held it up. Giuseppe nodded.
We drove for a little bit, with Elena saying we need to stop for the panini. But there's going to be salsiccia, Giuseppe said. And the kids? asked Elena. Matteo scrambled onto my lap in the back seat, and I showed him the hand trick, Here's the church, here's the steeple, open the doors, and see all the people! He repeated it perfectly, and we laughed and played during the car ride. Oh yes; and Lilo, the chihuahua, is along for the outing, making ventures to the front seat to shed all over Joseph.
Giuseppe made a phone call en route, to, I thought, order the panini. We stopped at a busy corner. Behind us, a couple pulled over and stopped, got out of their car, and peeked into ours, talking away, fawning over Lilo. I asked if they're delivering the panini and/or joining us, caravan style, to Etna. No, said Elena; they are just friends saying hi.
They drove off, and another carload pulled up and did the same. But this time, they were the family picnicking with us. Giovanni, Valentina, and their kids, Clara, Glenda, and Giorgio. In fact, they had the bulk of the picnic food. We drove off, no panini in sight.
Up up up the mountain/volcano, each curve offering a view prettier than the last.
Today is the sagra of the olive harvesters. Giuseppe brought a bottle of olive oil from his own grove. The more I spend time with him, the more things I learn that he does.
We parked, but continued on foot still higher up the path. We came to a sweet clearing, with a charming picnic table, and a lava stone firepit.
The kids ran around with Lilo, finding one little alcove after another, frolicking in the fresh air and letting imaginations lead their play. This is how kids engage their brains!
Giovanni prepared the firepit. First, clean out the bottom. Stack the stones even height all the way around. Lay twigs on top, creating a slatted surface. Pour the carbone over the slats. This 'charcoal' is from burnt 'vite*,' the grapevines, with thin and thick stems, and dried hardened grapes. Giovanni squirted something on top, then asked who had a lighter. Silence. So he walked toward the car, and must've found a smoker with one to spare, because he returned and got the fire going -- after much fanning with a storage box lid.
*Vite is the name for grapevine, which you may know as a curly long stem. Interestingly, vite is also the word for that spirally metal thing we call a screw!
We started by eating Giovanni's cheese, from capra, goats, but in no way is it the creamy chevre you buy at Trader Joe's. It's a hard, aged, salty cheese, textured and crumbly like a parmesan. There were arancini, twisty pieces of bread with prosciutto, flat bready squares of potato, rosemary, and salt, two varieties of olives, Elena's homemade hummus, and grilled fresh fennel. Add Giovanni's own vino, aged four years, which rivalled most wines I've had in as long a time.
Cooking over the fire, Giuseppe and Giovanni prepared the sausages and, what ended up being my favorite, the "Omm-boorg-er," which in no way was a hamburger. It was heaven! Ground pork, wild herbs from the mountain, cheese, and one of my favorite ingredients, funghi di Ferla. All served tucked into still-warm bread.
We were stuffed, yet a little packet of crispelle appeared. Joe and I pass the crispelle vendor's truck every weekend on viale dei Fiori. These crispelle (there are variations) are cigar-shaped, orange-peel infused, and soaked in honey. Definitely a recipe with Greek roots.
We all dug into them. Suddenly Matteo's head bopped up at the table, looking at the dessert.
"Che schifo, salsiccia con miele," he muttered. I LOL'd!! Not only for what he said, but for the sentiment behind it! "What crap, sausage with honey on it!" he said. I can see how they look like sausages, and his commentary proves the Italian food rules run strong!
We enjoyed the setting, letting the kids play, although we lost them occasionally. Finally, after cleaning the picnic site, dousing the fire, and collecting our things, we walked back to our cars. We thanked Giovanni and Valentina profusely for a great lunch.
Little did I know we were stopping again with them, to make the forest cuttings. It's a gorgeous day, and we made a bella passeggiata through the woods. It warmed my heart that Matteo, at Elena's side, often turned around to yell, "Kahren, Dove sei?" (Karen, where are you?)
We cut mistletoe branches, holly (with berries), pine branches, some wild oak. What a beautiful walk through nature!
More hugs and thanks to Giovanni and Valentina, as we got onto the car again. This time, Ettore insisted on sitting on my lap. Yes; it was heartwarming, and he was his old snuggly self, and though I ate it up, I also knew his motive was at least 50% driven by the possibility of pissing off his brother, taking my lap before he does. But Matteo conked out almost immediately in Elena's arms.
Going home, we took a drive past the ancient vineyards and castle of Solicchiata, and then by Giuseppe's olive grove. All so pretty.
We arrived home, tired from the food and wine and fresh air and high altitude.
After a small respite, we wandered to Bar Cristal's patio for a nightcap. Piera, the owner's wife, saw us from inside, and came out to chat. She's bummed we won't be here for Christmas.
We had an unusual extra round at Cristal, and enjoyed the nighttime stroll home, passing by the crispelleria. I called Nikos and enjoyed catching up. He's biking around Taipei with Justin Johnstone, a friend of his who I love (@justincredible). Nikos told me Justin suggested I join them! I'm tempted, but this is Nikos' special trip. I can't horn in on that. Besides; I'm high maintenance.
We love being on the family chat, and Lilliana posted this photo of Teà, who had more interest in Princess Leia activities than in the Disney princesses, at whatever kids' venue they visited today. She's my kinda gal!
It was an absolutely beautiful day.
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