Buon viaggio party

Today started slowly, with some tidying up the house and finishing yesterday's blog. 

Outside the monestary, Piazza di San Francesco got some Christmas-ing.

We decided to have lunch out, trying Red Fish without ordering the pranzo completo, but ordering a tomato and baby shrimp antipasto and a grilled orato (to split) to order. Joe got a glass of house white to wash it down; I had a lovely mineral water.

Orata 

It was a good lunch, but I think they charged us incorrectly, as it came to twice as much as usual. It was a tough day regarding money things; I had to go for a long walk to clear my head. 

The town was hushed. Although that's somewhat normal for the ora del pranzo, It was incredibly quiet today, as if everything was set on velvet. Even my footsteps seemed muffled. It was peaceful.

White Castle??!

I stopped in one last time at Decò, wanting to get chocolate covered orange peel for Mariella. People we're buying up poinsetta alla misura del albero -- the size of a tree, as I said to the customer ahead of me in line. The guy behind me said they should get one for St. Lucia day on the twelfth. His wife and I both said, "il tredici," the thirteenth! I always remember that date, having been cursed with bad eyesight. Santa Lucia is the patron saint of the blind, although I remember my grandpa humming Santa Lucia, the song of the saints protecting the mariners. 

The origin of the belief that she protects the blind has another twist -- Lucia, somewhat of a badass who survived many tortures, including a burning, demonstrated her faith to those torturers by tearing out her eyes. By a miracle, reputedly, she recovered her sight instantly. In fact, when we visited Archi de Pane last year, we saw her visage, made from artfully constructed bread, where Lucia is holding a plate bearing her own eyes!

She's Siracusa's patron saint, but in all of Sicily there is a rule -- no bread or pasta on the 13th, only legumes and grains. According to legend, a long famine ended on December 13, after having invoked the help of the Saint, with the entry into the port of ships full of grain. This may be why she oversees (with her miracle eyes) the sea.

Photos from Decò parking lot: 

I continued my walk through new-to-me neighborhoods, some streets being barely wide enough to pass my two shoulders. I was blanketed by charming houses on a quiet stroll. All of a sudden, as I approached civilization, Filippo came up to me, offering an abbraccio. He's quiet and elegant and kind. We wished each other Buon Natale before another hug and goodbye.

Cyclamen 

This may be the unaddressed ruins house for sale; the one I love

Now I'm seeing this car everywhere 

The other side of the piazza

I got home and went straight downstairs to take a nap. For some reason, or I should say I had no reason, I felt overwhelmingly sad and couldn't fight it. I couldn't fall asleep; I really wanted to have a catnap. Maybe it's just that I'm feeling the end of our time here more accutely than I realized.

I heard Mariella yelling for me in the stairwell. I splashed water on my face before going up, but my phone started ringing anyway. I promised her I was on my way.

She was at Elena's. They handed me a gift bag.

"Ma perché?!" I asked. Why am I getting a gift?

"Perché ti vogliamo bene," Mariella answered. Because we love you.

Damn if I wasn't trying not to cry before; now I really got choked up. I said I'm going to look at myself in the mirror, as I ducked away quickly and fastened the very high end piece of jewelry around my neck. It is from Gioielleria Valentina, and the designer is Damiani, the same as our beautiful wedding rings. Composing myself, I stepped back to them, showing off my pendant.

Mariella insisted I should exchange it if I want something else. Inside the box there is the card with the appraisal number(!) linked to a receipt. Though it is nothing I would've picked for myself, I could never change what they chose for me for this moment, which I'll remember forever. I will cherish it.

I thanked them profusely, and agreed we'd meet at 8:00 pm, when we're all meeting for pizza at Vincenzo's restaurant. I must've still looked sad, because I caught Mariella's animated gesture toward Elena, knowing she was saying "che c'è?!" as she waved her hand toward my back. She is such a caricature of herself sometimes. I love them both so much!

I tried again for just a brief nap, but meditated instead, then started to freshen up for dinner and do a little more packing.

Upstairs, I wiped down the kitchen after today's use, and called my mom. This time the call went through; I'd been having spotty luck maybe due to her landline, as other calls were working (I also tried her cell phone, but I think she doesn't hear it). After about a dozen rings, she finally picked up, sounding a bit woeful and exasperated, but I kept the tone light. I'll be home soon, I promised.

I felt fine after freshening up and dressing for dinner. We rode with Vincenzo to the restaurant, chatting all the way. He is never at a loss for topics of conversation! As Mariella says, get him started on something here, and he'll talk all the way to Milano.

The whole Biancavilla and Catania family were there, including Fina. Giovanna couldn't make it due to another commitment. Vincenzo ordered two each of several artisan-style pizzas, showcasing Sicily's finest flavors:

Broccoli di rape with salsiccia (my favorite), pizza alla Norma (my second favorite), mortadella with pistachio and burrata (also delicious), prosciutto with mushrooms and gorgonzola (I was too full to try), and prosciutto with pistachio (which I love, but have eaten a hundred times, so I tried the others instead). 

As usual, they drank beer and I had water. The kids got gelato, but Vincenzo insisted we get panettone. He wanted the classic, but Alessandro won the argument for dark chocolate with chocolate creme inside and hardened dark chocolate poured on top. It was magnificent.

Everyone relaxed and laughed and told stories, and we ate and shared and drank and cheered. There was much talk about Rachi's upcoming visit. I gave Mariella and Vincenzo the voucher I bought (via Elena) for their next trip with Pippo's travel group (they were touched). 

Mariella, Elena, and Fina explained that Minne (as in Minne-sota) is Sicilian slang for big boobs, with Fina pointing out her ample endowment. Maria Teresa and I asserted that we are more "mini" than "minne," asking if Fina could share!

The dinner ended with hugs and smiles and a la prossimas all around, as we walked out to our separate cars.

Vincenzo stopped in front of Piazza Roma, the main square, urging me to take a picture. I have trouble posting videos here, but I have one on Facebook under today's date. Each year, there is a new design for the street banners and for the main piazza. Everything this year is in blue and white.

Vincezo dropped us at the door before putting away his car. We thanked him again, and said goodnight.

In bed near midnight, Joe's phone rang. It was Aunt Mary in Milwaukee, calling to catch us before the Christmas season got too hectic. She wanted to send her love and Christmas wishes to us, not knowing we're in Sicily and it's after midnight. No problem, as she is sheer delight, no matter the hour.

I ordered my baccalà online, and sleep came next.