XX Settembre, in Rome on John's Birthday
Joe and I, in front of the Pantheon, my favorite structure.
The flight was quick and uneventful, and soon we were back in Capitani Guest House with the lively Cristiana. This place is beginning to feel like a third home!
After a brief nap and change of clothes, we took Cristiana's strong recommendation to take the autobus to Rome centro. Big cushy chairs, AC (it's in the 90sF here), and a smooth ride, with only a couple of stops, all for €7, dropping us off at Termini.
We're meeting Maria Grazia at 5:30, so we had plenty of time for lunch and a deeper exploration of this extraordinary city.
I remember loving Urbana 47 in the Monti neighborhood, from my solo trip to Rome. We were close to the restaurant, so we decided on an early (12:30) lunch.
The wait staff are friendly, adorable, and full of good humor.
A bottle of Pecorino, a first course of battered and fried zucchine flowers stuffed with salted anchovies and mozzarella, along with matchstick sized breaded and fried zucchine and equally coated and crisped whole fresh anchovies. With the wine, this course alone sent me to heaven. We followed with the perfect Cacio e Pepe; a simple dish with so few ingredients, yet nearly impossible for me to make at home. I took a bite and gave my brother-in-law's signal of rapture: my eyes rolled to the back of my head.
Balcony and street view
Via Urbana
Falerio Pecorino
Fiori di zucca farcita, zucchine e
acciughe fritte at Urbana 47
Cacio e Pepe
I want this apartment
We finished lunch, and, wanting something sweet, I remember a place called Zia Rosetta, which has mini and full-sized round pastries, stuffed with either sweet or savory ingredients. Like an elevated circular Pop Tart. Posh Tarts? Joe passed on this treat and crossed the road to go lean against a wall, while I devoured a Nutella-stuffed trip to Nirvana.
We intentionally walked aimlessly, but in the general direction of three churches which I knew each held a Caravaggio. If you know me at all, you know that I'm passionate about his work. I had to check these out.
First, I spotted a wall fountain, tucked into a little corner between buildings. I wanted to rinse off the Nutella remains from my hands. A young woman was at the fountain, trying to scoop up water in her hands for a drink. I walked over and put my finger on the end of the pipe to stop the water flow. I think she was at first pissed off, but then surprised, as she witnessed the pipe turning into a drinking fountain. An arc of water rose through the tiny flute-hole on top. And, my hands got clean in the process.
I had my eyes open for the nearest pharmacy, as my bitten ankle looked as if it swallowed a grapefruit, and it itches like hell. I walked into one; the pharmacist assessed the problem, and prescribed a cortisone cream. I hope it works. I was thinking I needed an antihistamine, but if I've learned one thing in Italy, it's this: trust the pharmacist.
Kids and their smart phones
At Zia Rosetta
Montener the Menace 'Mercurial' album cover, replicated in graffiti
Man in hat, motos, girl friends
Poesia
Steps, greenery, graffiti
I wanted to see the three paintings in the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi, on via di Santa Giovanna d'Arco (near Piazza Navona and the Pantheon): Paintings The Calling of Saint Matthew (famous for the illumination effect on Matthew's face), The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew, and The Inspiration of Saint Matthew (or Saint Matthew and the Angel). We got there, and though the church is normally open, today — luck of the Karen — it's closed for a private event. Damn!!!
Luckily, close by, there is the Basilica of Sant'Agostino at Piazza di Sant'Agostino, 80, which houses Caravaggio's 'Madonna di Loreto' (or Madonna of the Pilgrims). It's breathtaking.
The painting was widely criticized in its time, for the doorway being unbefit for Mary's religious status, for her scant whisper of a halo, and for the depiction of the pilgrim's dirty feet. I am fascinated by the length of Jesus' legs, and whether Caravaggio had a reason, intent, secret message, or mathematical perspective for making them so long and oddly out of proportion.
Trajan's column, Santa Maria dei Miracoli, Sant'Agnese in Agone
Shadow play
Bernini's Elephant
In front of the Pantheon, my favorite structure
Caravaggio's 'Madonna di Loreto'
Santa Rita and votive candles. I lit one for John for his birthday today.
Sant'Agostino entrance
Soon we had to hustle through the crowds and high heat to meet Maria Grazie, who was patiently waiting for us outside her place, looking perfect. I reeked of sweat and perhaps other bodily fluids and insisted on only an air kiss for her nasal protection.
We enjoyed a wicked smart conversation with her over drinks and chips, then said our goodbyes. She asked why Joe is so skinny; don't I feed him? Ugh; if I had a euro every time an Italian woman asked me that, I could buy a house here.
We promised to give fair warning before our next visit, so we'd have more time together. She's fun.
Joe and Maria Grazie
Tired, stinky, and happy, we found the return bus and enjoyed a comfortable ride back to Fiumicino city. Our walk from the stop to Cristiana's was a pleasant stroll, less than 15 minutes.
A quick shower and an incredibly comfortable bed were perfect ends to the day.
Happy Birthday, John. So glad to be your mom.
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