Calabria!

Scilla


We didn't sleep much; got up at dark o'clock so Alessandro could drop us at the airport car rental before he started work. We relaxed over caffè and cornetti, but nothing quite replaces a night's sleep.

Joe at car rental window 

Such good airport food

Rental car

With suitcases crammed illogically into the small rental car, an Opel Corsa, we said goodbye to Catania and headed up the coast.

Turning off almost a straight line from Joe's family town of Oliveri toward the sea, we drove off the autostrada and right onto the ferry. Slick! 20 minutes later, we're in Reggio Calabria.

Our car is behind the white minivan 

On deck

Halfway between Oliveri and Settingiano,
at sea

Seven minutes after we drove off the ferry, we're at the Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia in Reggio Calabria, to see the Riace Bronzes. And they are splendid. In tact and so full of detail; they date back to 460 BC, and were discovered by divers in 1972. Mind boggling, really.

Toned

Perfect body

Foot detail

Riaci Bronze warrior 

Riace Bronze warrior 

Bronze bust

Bronze bust

After visiting the well-curated, well-staffed museum of Reggio Calabria, we drove to Scilla, a town I fell in love with on my Calabria visit last year. Scilla, the beautiful nymph whom Circe turned into a monster, lives amongst the rocks in the sea, swirling two torrential columns of despair for every sailor, below the water's surface. There is a line of demarcation between the strong tidal currents within the Strait of Messina.

The meeting of currents can create whirlpools, similar to the mythical Charybdis (also the name of our ferry — I asked if we needed to put a coin under our tongue). The northern end of the straight is where the Ionian meets the Tyrrhenian Sea. The straight's bottleneck shape separates the two seas. 

Scilla transformation 

Lungomare 

Fortress & sailboat 

Lo scoglio

Ashore

Peek-a-boo sea

Moto shot

Robert Indiana tilts the O the other way

BOO-YAHHHH!!!!

Sea view

Tiny fishing huts

Scilla fortress

We were hungry. I looked up a few recommendations, and settled on Ristorante Casato Sea View. It did not disappoint. 

Polpo crudo, mezzaluna filled with pesce spada and served with a finocchietto and olive oil accompaniment, and finally, a thumbs-up spaghetti vongole (that's not Mariella's, that is) for Joe. A mezzo litre of white wine to wash it down; a caffè afterward for me, and grappa for Joe. All served by — of course – Giuseppe, our convivial server. And the view couldn't be beat.

Restaurant entrance

Carpaccio di polpo crudo

Restaurant view 

Restaurant view 

Restaurant view

Mezzaluna with swordfish, finocchietto, gamberi rossi

Spaghetti alle vongole 

Caffè with a lid!

Afterward, a vertical walk via the lungomare back to the car.

Now on to Tropea, before it gets dark. We miscalculated, and it will take over an hour (vs 30 minutes) to get there. Massimo, at the B&B, said no problem, but he'll have Tania waiting for us instead of him.

She was waiting outside. Tania told us where to park, and as I waited for Joe to come from the car, she explained "I'm from Ukraine. You are from Switzerland? Germany?" I should've said yes. But I truthfully and painfully acknowledged we're from the US. She gave a sigh/sob, and had such a look on her face, I couldn't help but blurt out, I'm ashamed, ashamed! We don't agree with our stupid president. She still looked sad and disappointed and gobsmacked. I wanted to hug her. Good Lord; I can't wait to read that stronzo's obituary. He's fucking up the world.

The place looks nothing like the internet listing, and I'm usually pretty good at ferreting out these things. It isn't bad, it's just not wonderful, as the 5-star reviews indicated. But the scenes from the balcony, and even more, from the rooftop, are great. It's clean and peaceful, the host is wonderful, and we have the rooftop to ourselves if we want it!

Tonight, a walk around Tropea's historic center, and a stop for aperitivi at Deodato Lounge. It's a pretty town; a mini-Taormina, with its historic center and splendid sea views, but I prefer the laid-back jewel of Scilla, personally.

Some scenes from Tropea, before I drop off to sleep:

Serving for ONE to accompany drinks

Flower power

Church

Alley

Birgù style setting

Another alley 

Vespa

Castello

Harbor at night

Lion plinth 


Our balcony

John's birthday 

Good night!


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