The Real Sicily


I remember when we first arrived here several years ago, Alessandro took us to the Calanche, where 'The Bible' was filmed, and then to his ficodindia and arancia orchards. Stopping for an affogato in the village, which hosts 60 people (not families, people), a church, a bar, and a post office, Alessandro explained that most any Sicilian you ask will tell you the real Sicily is in the interior. 

Of course, the word 'island' always conjures ideas of coastlines and the sea for the average person, which are fabulous spots for tourists. But the true pulse of the island is, as makes sense, in its heart. Since that conversation with Alessandro, I've done some polling over the years, and it does seem to be the consensus. Also, the interior is worthy of a plein aire painting. The palette seems dipped in honey.

I had the idea to travel further 'in' today. I did not have the idea to travel as far in as we did, or to navigate Joe to the entirely wrong destination from my notes. I was aiming for a castle in Agira, and we ended up at a church on an ear-popping hilltop. I had packed a picnic lunch and a bottle of wine to enjoy on a sunny hillside, but the day (and we) took a wrong turn.

All that aside, it was a glorious, sun-filled day, and the drive was picturesque and serene. We didn't find an easy lunch spot, but we did pass by the location we've been hearing about for years--Outlet Sicily. Here you can find Prada, D&G, Armani, Liu Jo, and other high-end designers, selling last season's clothes for a "good" price. We kept driving.

An hour and 15 minutes later, we arrived at the top of Poggio del Conte Ruggero D'Altavilla, a chatming hilltop town where time seems to have stopped. We strolled around, took in some vistas, walked the maze of labyrinthine streets, and called it a day. Even the little gas station was cute!

Once home, I said I'd walk to Lidl to stretch my car legs and see if by any chance they had canned pumpkin. They carry quite a few international products. Elena had asked for pumpkin pie on "our" Thanksgiving. I may need to try making it from scratch. Like from a real pumpkin and all. Scary.

On the way to Lidl, I noticed an overnight change in Biancavilla: Christmas decorations are strung!

Returning after lugging just a few (but heavy) things, I made a salad and a pancetta with roasted butternut squash risotto, then cleaned up, took out the garbage, and headed to bed. 

This week we must solidify plans for Rachi's visit to Minnesota the month of July! She had tennis and homework after school; it's hard to find a good time to discuss things. I'll lasso her parents next time I see them.

And because it's late, and I'm tired, I will leave a million photos of some of Sicily's interior for you to whiz through, which illustrate today's trip to the heartland.


Poggio del Conte Ruggero D'Altavilla:



A very vertical town

View from the hilltop's crest



This brought memories of my own nonno, gardening in a place not known for its soil





This is not the hilltop town; this outline is rocky crags and stones


This is Poggio del Conte Ruggero D'Altavilla

Topmost points, I'm learning, are either castles or churches. This is 
Cappella di San Pietro.


Outside edges of Biancavilla, Muglia, Catenanuova, Cuticchi, and other small towns throughout the Enna province:

















On the way home, through a Calanche look-alike, orange groves, and outposts:











The Dittaino River valley and ficodindia forever:














Interrupted by the occasional orange grove

Crates and crates of oranges, off to restaurants and stores

Biancavilla Natalizia!




This stray but well-fed cutie always had three buddies, and they hung out by the Esso station. I now just see this guy; apparently 
he had to go all the way to Lidl to get 
some attention.

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas!

Risotto

That's all, folks!


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