Catania Day, Party Night
Bella Catania! I love a big city, and this one has it all--from the fish market where you step around smelly puddles, to the tony streets lined with high-end fashion houses; modern glass structures and countless roundabouts hug the areas around archeological excavations; gray and cream versions of gingerbread churches, and elephant motifs. The lungomare. The sea. Restaurant food, street food, tourist food, locals' food, palazzi, Villa Bellini park, and one big-ass castle. If you don't love Catania, you haven't looked at it with open eyes.
We took a parking spot where we could, noted the nearby address, and walked 15 minutes to the fish market, just for sensory overload. Vendors shouting, seafood of every color in the rainbow, aromas of fresh fish, lemons, and parsley, and sunlight streaming onto our skin. I was ready for oysters.
On to Wine & Charme. Kennedy greeted us warmly, introducing his new assistant, Daniela (Caterina is now on full-time grandma duty; Umberto had the day off), a small slip of a woman, with wild blazing red hair and perfect English. I congratulated Kennedy on his piccolina, now one year old.
Daniela knows her wine. I needed to buy some bottles of a wine for my sister, the Barbazzole she liked from her time here. But Kennedy explained there's been a producer buyout; there is no quality control, and they're not supporting some of the new practices. The word China threaded through the conversation, and Italians won't deal with trickster labeling. Indeed; I don't recall seeing this wine at Decò any more.
Daniela poured each of us a vase of a crisp white wine, setting out rosemary almonds roasted with honey, artisan sesame breadsticks just delivered from the panetteria, and assorted olives. Kennedy gave me a Sicilian ceramic magnet. I think we helped make their month's sales goal.
Kennedy and Daniela chose two wines that are similar to the Barbazzole, suggesting my sister "do a compare," as Kennedy said. So I got three of each.
I got picky about my selections, as I wanted some reds, some whites. I know the producers I like, and that I like to support. When I'm here, I buy Sicilian, especially Etnaen wines. Finally narrowing it down, I gave all the information for shipping, and as always, am praying that it gets to its final destination unscathed.
Next stop, Colori di Sole, another Sicilian shop, with many works by local artisans. I wanted to buy something special for my neighbor who's handling our mouse issue back in Minnesota.
I meant to ask Kennedy for a restaurant recommendation, knowing there's a 50/50 chance we'll be directed to a tourist trap. Joe asked him about a place while I paid for the beautiful earrings I found for my neighbor. We plugged the name into GPS, and once I saw the street canopy of colorful umbrellas, I knew we'd all but see pictures of each dish on the menu. I made an executive decision to instead try an area that was, unfortunately, not as close to where we were standing. Joe was hungry.
As I entered that address and headed off, I heard my name. ??! It was Antonio! He and his colleague were getting a stand-and-eat slab of fish at the market. They'll cook it for you, if you ask; I'm totally happy with street food, and have done exactly this, but Joe enjoys a meal with service and wine. I like both dining styles. I asked Antonio for his recommendation for a sit-down place. Not here, he responded. Check around Castello Ursino; that's where the Catanese eat. Grazie, Antonio! Kiss-kiss, ciao ciao ciao ciao ciao !
We circled the castle, not having luck finding any place open for lunch. I remembered a place from a prior Catania trip, "Next to a beverage kiosk, then you look down, and there's a restaurant," but had no idea of the restaurant name or the exact location. Joe said let's just find the car; we'll eat at home. I reprogrammed GPS, and as soon as we turned the corner-- "There's the kiosk! And look down; there's the restaurant!"
Joe ordered spaghetti and clams, and wine. I ordered a Favignana insalatone, and a polpette di cavallo con pistacchio. I wish Nikos could enjoy it with me! He also appreciates horsemeat.
We finished with a caffè, then found the car with no problem (it can be a problem; this was a feat worth mentioning). The drive through town offered glimpses of Etna.
Elena had invited us to their place for dinner, so I was glad to get back with time for a cat nap and to freshen up.
Instead, Ettore came up to play! With Elena working for a US company, her online meeting times are often afternoon and evening. Unfortunately, I can't contain Ettore upstairs when he suddenly gets bored and decides to go home. I think that the articles of stimulation are too babyish in the ballroom/playroom. He needs activity to stay tuned. I'll check out some kids' activity things at the market tomorrow. Also unfortunately, he appears to be sick again (a cold), which means I also will be shortly.
We painted again; he instructed me step by step as to how he paints a bear, adding "Brava, Kahren" when I finished.
Elena's dinner ended up being a party! Sara and Cesare, Piera and Pippo, Padre Giuseppe, Piero and Antonietta, and a woman who I've met before but can't remember her name.
Starting with trays of cheeses, and more of meats (certain components of charcuterie aren't mixed; including some types of meats on the same tray), each including olives and taralli; we had some wine and milled about talking to everyone. Sitting down at the table, after Giuseppe Uno's lengthy but sweet blessing, Elena dished up her homemade artichoke lasagne for the first course. Though I'm not a number one fan of pasta al forno, it had full, rich flavor and a nice crusty top. Next came a pork involtini, served with three kinds of potatoes: roasted white and sweet, and French fries! And more wine. Joe likes when Giuseppe Uno is in charge of the beverages. Last of all, the dessert, the mignon tray. I chose a mini sfogliatelle, which was filled with chocolate. It did not compare to the ecstasy experience in Bronte, but it was still delightful. With dessert came the bottles of Amaretto and the oddball cousin who always shows up from the freezer: Jägermeister. No idea why that's a thing here. But Joe was in heaven.
Elena, as with many people outside the US, learns about American culture through film and TV. Fascinated by the Thanksgiving holiday, we are planning to reproduce a mini Thanksgiving meal here. Wanting to share the joy with her friends at the table tonight, she asked me if we have the tradition of each saying what we're thankful for, as she's seen in movies. I said yes, our family has done that, especially when Doug is is charge. She wanted to announce it at the table and have a go at it here.
Each person definitely had their long moment in the spotlight, often talking for a solid two to three minutes (time it; you'll start playing Academy Award music), but everything was meaningful and sweet. I loved that Giuseppe said his huge moment of gratefulness comes every day he walks through the door and Matteo asks to play. Elena gave thanks for her kids, her family, her work, her community, having Nonno in her life, a special dedication to me, and lastly, a special loving thanks to Giuseppe. He laughed, "L'ultimo!!" -- at the end!
More flowing conversations, some shuttling of dishes from the table to the kitchen ("Just leave it; tomorrow is Andrea"), and I had to bid adieu. I needed sleep.
And yes; my thanks were for my family, including this newest one -- because truly, they are family.
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