Le Donne al Mare, La Famiglia alla Sera
I invited Elena up for my l'ultimo pot of American coffee, which she claims to love, and is ordering a drip coffee maker for her own place. I said I will bring a suitcase of coffee next time here, because it is costly to ship, and then they have to pay a tax to receive it. No wonder health care is free--everything is taxed!
The boys are spending the morning at Nonna Cettina's house, so Elena said let's do something. Do I want to go to the sea, or go to Condorelli in Belpasso? Oooh; that's a difficult choice. I'm partial to the sea, but Condorelli is top notch for granita and other sweets. I must get my fill. I told Elena it's a 50/50 decision for me; do what is easiest. Giovanna and Mariella are joining us.
Again in the oven on wheels, the Cleo, we dropped off the boys at Cettina's, and I was happy to have a moment to visit with her. She's peaceful and beautiful. No wonder her kids are both stunning.
On the way to the lungomare of Catania, there was a heated discussion about Massimo, until I realized they were talking about a massimo amount. I now had to re-context everything, and realized they were talking about a payout for some utility. Context makes a difference.
The heat feels good, but not in the car. We parked in a fortunate spot on the sea front, where the breeze was unequivocally refreshing. Mariella directed us to a caffe bar, Tavernetta Cafè. Elena said, we are going here because Mommy likes it.
It's new, elegant, and everything is delicious, including the service. Good choice, Mariella. They don't serve piccola granita, only full sized, and I was shamed into eating a brioche with mine. I love them, but don't need them. However, it'd be like eating a Chicago Dog in the US, without a bun. It's just not the way. I caved, and was happy for it. It is such an enormously beautiful way to start the day, especially a hot one.
Elena paid the tab, and we set off across the street to the promenade. I'm impressed with the solar powered lights and electric bike chargers; the areas for kids to play and for adults to hop on an outdoor elliptical trainer, treadmill, weight bench, and more.
This stretch of Catania is refreshing and pretty. The tony houses along the waterfront look beautiful enough to eat. This is a slower-paced, tranquil Catania. Sailboats lazily dotted the water.
After walking the promenade, Mariella also wanted to show me the lava beach. Both Elena and I were particularly awestruck by a luscious home right on the waterfront. Every detail was incredible, including the rooftop garden and open-shuttered windows with thick arched friezes. The photos don't do justice. At the moment we were gaping at it, Elena nudged me and pointed to a woman walking her dog. "She lives there. We'll call her a bitch". Indeed, the dog walker was opening the gate with her keys. "So on the right we have a beach, and on the left we have a bitch," I offered. "Appunto".
Then, because we could never buy that house, and because Joe was not with us today, Elena asked me to snap a photo of her to send to Joe.
"Che c'è?," asked Mariella.
"Perdente," answered Elena. Loser. (She means it lovingly... and jokingly).
And now we're home; Mariella and I both sweated enough to soak our pants; it's as if we ran through a hot sprinkler. Mariella invited me for her Sunday ragù, and you know I'm super hot and uncomfortable, because I politely declined. Her ragù is not a thing I'd normally pass up. But, that granita and brioche are still sitting full on my stomach, and tonight we're having a farewell dinner at Vincenzo's Antichi Sapori. I do need to fit into just one seat on the airplane.
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I was thinking of Giovanna, her living alone, and her immaculately clean house. I think being alone makes you a cleaner. It fills the time (a concept that makes me sad).
Well, I hate cleaning. But I don't want to leave this place in disarray, so I got as much packed away as possible, double-checked Condor's ridiculous baggage rules, downloaded Samsung's measuring tool, and did most of what I could on getting the upstairs quarters and downstairs bedroom to sparkle. I'm not sure what tomorrow will look like, but I want to get to bed pretty early since I have to be at the airport 7:00 am on Tuesday morning.
I must've been downstairs when Ettore brought a postcard up to my kitchen. Elena said they bought, wrote, and stamped one when in Holland, but never mailed it and subsequently lost it, until it appeared today. So I had it hand delivered. It's my week for receiving post cards from guys I love!
I stopped in to thank him, and now I may try to brave the heat and go for a walk; perhaps grab tomorrow's breakfast.
As I stepped outside, Mariella, Vincenzo, and Nonno were at the car. Where are you going? Mariella asked. Do you want to go to the vigne with us? Sure, I said.
We pulled into a parking lot of what looked like a school or some other municipal building. "Che cos'è?" I asked. "Votare," Mariella answered. Voting day for Sicily and Sardegna, who are in the same "ward".
Back to the apartment; we're picking up Elena and the kids and going to the vigne so the kids can run around. Just then I heard Elena yelling for me in the staircase. I'm down here and ready to go!, I shouted. I explained to Elena I went with them when they voted, and I offered to cast a vote myself to cancel out Nonno's. "Why the old people like Nonno vote, when they'll be dead before seeing any change anyway?" There may be some point to that.
We drove off to the vigne, without Vincenzo, passing by the house they told me was for sale. (Vincenzo called later, at dinner, getting info on it's asking price of €130,000 (Vincenzo thinks €110,00 will be had), 5 bedrooms. Attached vineyard. At dinner, I suggested HE buy it and turn it into a B&B, and offer one night of Sicilian cooking lessons and make a 7- or 10-day stay compulsory. He and Mariella thought it was a good idea. Vincenzo already began planning en suite bathrooms for each of the five bedrooms).
The kids played, Ettore got his fingers slammed in a car door (he was climbing out the window; bad move), and we made a raccolta of cherries. Elena carefully explained to Ettore, who wanted to climb the ladder with her, that this is an experiment, and maybe he'll fall and die, but then we will know it didn't work. Nonno pointed out the sea, the view of Siracusa, and the latin names of every plant. Still sharp as a whip, that one.
I walked down to the property for sale, to take photos and look around. Rudolf, the vigne dog, led the way. The house looks deceivingly small from the street, but stretches back a ways and down over a hill (walk out), and includes the vineyard across the road.
By the time I got back from my walk, everyone was ready to leave. Too bad, as the air was fresh and pleasant at the vigne.
I rode to dinner with Alessandro and family, glad to spend time with them altogether. They're an adorable family, and a lot of fun.
Vincenzo's restaurant was hopping. Agnese took me on a tour of all the animals (who are there for kids' entertainment), and I love the patio and the open area where kids can run. Family friendly; in general, Italians adore kids.
Pizza, beer, gelato, laughs, fun, dreams discussed, three glasses broken (kids), and Elena giving me a gift of honey, knowing there's a little story behind the last honey purchase I made there.
As Giovanna said, they did this all for me--"È tutto per te, Gioia". I told her I know -- this family is incredible.
There's more to say, with deeper feelings to express, but the overriding one at 1:00 am is exhaustion. I need to sign off and crash. I'll edit tomorrow.
Needless to say, this was another special evening of pure sweetness.
I still pinch myself sometimes.
##editing finished; photos added
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