Roccolumera and Castelmolo
The heat broke a little, and today is a pleasant 88-90°F. After Vincenzo went out for our caffe and cornetti, we spent the morning at the beach. He informed us we’ll have lunch with his friends Carmelo and Marisa (who we’ve met, and enjoy) at their seaside home in Roccolumera, which is between Taormina and Messina.
Pingatore in the water
We changed clothes at the Lido, and drove to meet them. What a beautiful seaside condo they have! All fresh and in Italian-beachy colors, with terraces and patios catching the sea air and vistas. I told Marisa this is exactly what I’d choose for my summer home if I lived here. And, if I could buy it. When Vincenzo said it was Marisa’s idea, and Carmelo went along with it, begrudgingly, to make his wife happy, I said, “If the wife is happy, everyone’s happy,” a bit of a play on an American phrase. Vincenzo brought me inside and made me repeat it to Carmelo.
Marisa prepared a bountiful but light lunch, starting with prosecco, then on to a light tomato and eggplant with penne dish. The second course was a beautiful seafood salad of octopus, calamari, and mussels; spiedini di vitello and an astounding eggplant frittata melanzane, along with tortarella salad and a cheese plate. Dessert was fresh fruit and zuppa inglese gelato, and we had wine.
Afterward, we relaxed and conversed on the sea view terrace, talking about Frank Lloyd Wright, Covid, and politics, all while some nice weed was burned nearby. Marisa asked how I learned to speak Italian; I told her that first drinking some wine really helps.
As we were leaving, Marisa kissed me on both cheeks and said, what I’m learning is the greatest phrase of affection between women, “you are a sister to me”. She’s a sweetheart.
Back to Taormina to meet Lilliana, we headed to the sea for an afternoon swim. It was refreshing, and gave us energy into the evening. Tonight, we had a simple Messinese supper—the white label Messina beer, two kinds of Messina-style pizza, and tavola calda. I had an escarole arancino, which was a beautiful balance of bitter greens and silky melty cheese, all surrounded by those crunchy carbs that make arancini a favorite of mine.
I heard Vincenzo telling Simone that, if asked, he’s to say he’s 19 (he’s 6). And Tomaso is a 38-year-old doctor (he’s 8). Tea is just a baby, so nobody will ask her. Vincenzo then winked and told me we’re “going to Amsterdam” tonight—watch Joe’s wallet! I understood. “C’è una strada delle luci rossi?” There’s a red light district?
Off to Castelmolo!
The “Amsterdam” was a naughty-themed bar, and Castelmolo is about 20 feet from heaven. Nosebleed height. And the views were stunning, although the pictures do no justice.
We each had a drink (the boys had granita), laughed and talked, and drove back to Taormina to sleep after a very pleasant, fun-filled day.
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