Isola Bella and Oliveri—Joe’s hometown
After a quick caffe and biscuits, we all loaded into the little Renault Cleo to go to Isola Bella.
Tomaso religiously counted the number of steps on the descent to the island; I believe it was 634, which seems low, but sweating profusely makes me believe I’ve done more than I have.
We got to the sandy isthmus and crossed to the island, famous for older Americans in that it’s where Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton ran away together after falling in love on the set of Cleopatra. The paparazzi snapped them sipping cocktails at the Wunderbar Cafe in Taormina, where we sat listening to music last night, when Simone returned because he thought the vocalist was pretty.
The island was gifted to Taormina by King Ferdinand I in the early 1800s. Later that century, a man called Trevelyan bought the island from the town and built a house (gates were closed today; damn) facing the sea. He imported exotic plants, well suited to this climate. Subsequent owners kept up the island until the last one in the 1990s went bankrupt. The island was auctioned off. It had been noted in the 80s by conservationists, and was later obtained by the region and designated as a natural reserve. It’s pristine, and a great spot for snorkelers and naturalists.
We made reservations to spend the night in Oliveri, the town of Joe’s maternal grandparents. What a charming, clean, vibrant place! We were last here in April 2014, and the summer vibe in this beach town rocks quite differently than that of the springtime.
Our B&B (“Seaside Elegance”) is adorable, as is Fabio, the owner. We were thrilled not only to take a lovely shower, but to find that laundry was included! I did the wash, hung it to dry, then before we got showered clean and fresh, we decided to hike to the Laghetti di Marinello.
Under the promontory of the Sanctuary of Tindari, which holds the Black Madonna, the sea coast is modified by a peninsula holding some small lakes within. There is some story about the Navy claiming the existence or nonexistence of the sand formation that is already there. Apparently it was officially recognized in 1877. There are several caves along the walls.
After our long laghetti hike and a refreshing skinny dip, we showered and dressed for a walk to dinner. We decided to eat on the beach at Lido Belvedere, where in 2014 we had a spectacular lunch; one of the last times together with Joe’s sister Mary before she died.
The restaurant is known for its seafood.
We split a first course of chitarra pasta with seafood, and a second course of mixed grilled fish and seafood. The angostino, Italy’s baby lobster, was sweet as candy. The best part of dinner was being outdoors on the beach, watching the evening sky settle in for the night.
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