Over the River and Through the ‘Hoods

May 03, 2022

Today, my main objective was “il pranzo” at Sora Lella on Tiburina, the Roman island in the Tiber River. It came highly recommended by a native DOC Roman, and we failed to get a seat there in January. I was determined to eat there today. They open at 12:30, so I was sure to be stationed outside their door by 12:15 at the latest.

Taking a leisurely stroll there from via Nazionale, where I’m staying, gave me plenty of soul-sustaining Roman vistas. I enjoyed the journey on foot. Luckily, my strategy paid off. I was the second person in line when Sora Lella opened, and was granted a table. The two adroit servers who tended my needs were top-notch. I was torn between Scottodita, Baccalà, and Coda alla Vaccinara. To be honest, the Trippa sounded amazing, but Mariella’s is soooo good, I’m hoping to have it soon in Sicily.

Upon the deft server’s advice, I settled on the Coda. She recommended the carciofi as a side dish, but since Elena loves it so much, I know we will have plenty once I’m in Sicilia. The Roman side dish I dream of, and can’t get anywhere else, is puntarelle. So I begged the server not to judge, but I just had to have it.

I ate all of the above with such gusto, one of the servers brought handi-wipes and told me to just grab the coda with my hands, eat it, and wipe up afterwards. I had foregone the bread, but Chef came out and gave some to me, to “fare la scarpetta”. He was pleased to see me enjoying my meal.

The house wine, also recommended, was excellent! And perfect for my savory/Salty lunch.

Because I’m a glutton for punishment, and want to look at plates of food I could’ve ordered, I cruised the small 12-table establishment on the way to the ladies’ room. So. Many. Good. Things. But what I noticed most, was that NOT ONE TABLE of people there were speaking anything but Italian. I think I picked the right restaurant for my “me” date.

Part of my choice involved geography. Tiberina Island is on the way to Janiculum Hill, which is on the other side of the river, therefore is not counted amongst Rome’s seven hills. But, it’s a beauty.

One of the main attractions is Villa Doria Pamphilj. It’s a bit out of the way, so in all my trips to Rome, I’ve never been there. Until today. Walking through Trastevere to Gianicolo, Rome changed its demeanor. Sure, Trastevere is filled with Brits and crappy food joints to serve them )and good restaurants as well, such as the original Antica Pesa). But getting to the outer edges, further into Gianicolo, there are gardens and schools and street fountains, and, finally, Villa Doria Pamphilj. What a peaceful, gorgeous expanse!! On the way, I walked past some school grounds, in front of which is a street where the “ragazzi” were playing soccer with a makeshift soccer ball: wadded up paper, wrapped round and round with packing tape!

From Wiki:

In Roman mythology, Janiculum is the name of an ancient town founded by the god Janus (the two-faced god of beginnings). In Book VIII of the Aeneid by Virgil (Publius Vergilius Maro), King Evander shows Aeneas (the Trojan hero of this epic poem) the ruins of Saturnia and Janiculum on the Capitoline Hill near the Arcadian city of Pallanteum (the future site of Rome) (see line 54, Bk. 8). Virgil uses these ruins to stress the significance of the Capitoline Hill as the religious center of Rome.

According to Livy, the Janiculum was incorporated into ancient Rome during the time of king Ancus Marcius to prevent an enemy from occupying it. It was fortified by a wall, and a bridge was built across the Tiber to join it to the rest of the city.

The Villa Doria Pamphili is a seventeenth-century villa with what is today the largest landscaped public park in Rome, Italy. It is located in the quarter of Monteverde, on the Gianicolo (or the Roman Janiculum), just outside the Porta San Pancrazio in the ancient walls of Rome where the ancient road of the Via Aurelia commences.

Later, after re-charging my phone and myself, I enjoyed a nighttime stroll through Rome. I fleetingly considered the safety risks of such an endeavor, but realized that my heart was already torn and dying at the thought of leaving my favorite city in the whole world. What did it matter if the rest of me went to ruin? I’d fit right in.

It is late. I’ve had wine. I’ll simply dump all of my photos of everything in my 30,000 steps today: