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Un Giorno di Notizie Lente

Rockin’ around the Christmas tree

We have no idea why Jägermeister is the
digestivo of choice here

Fratelli Stissi, the ortofrutta vendor, with fennel to sell, and where I bought the nightmare wine



Today is a slow news day, save for the dismal fact that Covid cases are on the rise in Biancavilla. It is the way Palm Springs was a year ago in their purple zone -- everyone should wear a mask, now outdoors as well as inside.

Spending a morning with Ettore today meant that he searched and tracked down Joe at every juncture. He giggles ridiculouly when they play (and so does Ettore). It is a far cry from just a week or two ago, when Ettore would look at Joe and say, "Va via!" Go away! Just last week, he began saying Go Away in English. But ever since Mr. Sillypants tipped the sofa over with his antics, his status has been raised to a demigod in Ettore's eyes. It is quite charming, and tugs a bit at my heartstrings.

A couple of weeks ago, I read on my Expats In Sicily site, where a woman wrote, "You know you've been here a while when you scratch your head and ask the hubby, What day is tomorrow? And he responds (while reading a book), "Organics". I chuckled! This has become our life. Why don't they go to single sort recycling as the rest of the free world has done, you might ask? Take a look at the photos of any street I've posted. You could perhaps get a car, but definitely not an American-sized garbage truck down these streets. That means a little Ape truck does the job. Which means a small truckbed for cargo. So there are certain days when only certain little bags get picked up off the hook that hangs on a rope outside your door. For us, tomorrow (Wednesday) is glass and organics, always a bit of an embarassment. We go through a lot of glass bottles! 

After my time with Ettore, I spent a good amount of the afternoon trying to resolve some financial communications (with a U.S. company) that require only one "yes" or "no" answer; the first inquiry I made was on Oct. 4th. After six more phone calls over several months, and excruciatingly long hold times, I still have no simple yes or no to my question. If this were business in a third-world country, one might say, Oh; I can't wait to get back to America where it's easier to deal with this stuff! But no; this crap is right down the hall from you. That wasted a good part of the afternoon.

Around 4 pm, we set out to buy a few sundries and needed chocolate to have on hand. Tonight I made (with Joe's family recipe sausage) a leek and sausage ragu to go with fettuccine. It was deeply satisfying.

And I looked at flights. Our next one is to Bari, from which we will go to Matera to visit our friend Giuseppe C. and to see the Sassi homes. Evidently Daniel Craig stayed there during a Bond filming. Here are the Wikipedia tidbits on Matera:


Matera

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Matera
Comune di Matera
Panorama of Matera
Panorama of Matera
Coat of arms of Matera
Matera within the Province of Matera
Matera within the Province of Matera
Location of Matera
Matera is located in Italy
Matera
Matera
Location of Matera in Basilicata
Coordinates: 40°40′N 16°36′E
CountryItaly
RegionBasilicata
ProvinceMatera (MT)
FrazioniLa Martella, Venusio, Picciano A, Picciano B
Government
 • MayorDomenico Bennardi (M5S)
Area
 • Total387.4 km2 (149.6 sq mi)
Elevation
401 m (1,316 ft)
Population
 (January 1, 2018)[3]
 • Total60,403
 • Density160/km2 (400/sq mi)
Demonym(s)Materani
Time zoneUTC+1 (CET)
 • Summer (DST)UTC+2 (CEST)
Postal code
75100
Dialing code0835
Patron saintMadonna della Bruna
Saint dayJuly 2
WebsiteOfficial website
The Sassi and the Park of the Rupestrian Churches of Matera
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Matera - veduta della Civita da S. Maria di Idris.JPG
The Sassi of Matera
CriteriaCultural: iii, iv, v
Reference670
Inscription1993 (17th Session)
Area1,016 ha
Buffer zone4,365 ha

Matera (Italian pronunciation: [maˈtɛːra]locally [maˈteːra] (About this soundlisten)MateranoMatàrë [maˈtæːrə]) is a city in the region of Basilicata, in Southern Italy.

As the capital of the province of Matera, its original settlement lies in two canyons carved by the Gravina River. This area, the Sassi di Matera, is a complex of cave dwellings carved into the ancient river canyon. Over the course of its history, Matera has been occupied by Greeks, Romans, Longobards, Byzantines, Saracens, Swabians, Angevins, Aragonese, and Bourbons.

By the late 1800s, Matera's cave dwellings became noted for intractable poverty, poor sanitation, meager working conditions, and rampant disease. Evacuated in 1952, the population was relocated to modern housing, and the Sassi (Italian for "stones") lay abandoned until the 1980s. Renewed vision and investment led to the cave dwellings becoming a noted historic tourism destination, with hotels, small museums and restaurants – and a vibrant arts community.

Known as la città sotterranea ("the underground city"), the Sassi and the park of the Rupestrian Churches were named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. In 2019, Matera was declared a European Capital of Culture.

History[edit]

Though scholars continue to debate the date the dwellings were first occupied in Matera, and the continuity of their subsequent occupation, the area of what is now Matera is believed to have been settled since the Palaeolithic (10th millennium BC). This makes it potentially one of the oldest continually inhabited settlements in the world.[4] Alternatively it has been suggested by architectural historian Anne Parmly Toxey that the area has been "occupied continuously for at least three millennia and occupied sporadically for 150–700 millennia prior to this".[5]

The town of Matera was founded by the Roman Lucius Caecilius Metellus in 251 BC who called it Matheola.[6] In AD 664 Matera was conquered by the Lombards and became part of the Duchy of Benevento. Architectural historian Anne Parmly Toxey writes that "The date of Matera's founding is debated; however, the revered work of the city’s early chroniclers provides numerous, generally accepted accounts of GothLongobardByzantine, and Saracen sieges of the city beginning in the eighth century and accelerating through the ninth century AD."[7] In the 7th and 8th centuries the nearby grottos were colonised by both Benedictine and Basilian monastic institutions. The 9th and 10th centuries were characterised by the struggle between the Byzantines and the German emperors, including Louis II, who partially destroyed the city. After the settlement of the Normans in Apulia, Matera was ruled by William Iron-Arm from 1043.

After a short communal phase and a series of pestilences and earthquakes, the city became an Aragonese possession in the 15th century, and was given in fief to the barons of the Tramontano family. In 1514, however, the population rebelled against the oppression and killed Count Giovanni Carlo Tramontano. In the 17th century Matera was handed over to the Orsini and then became part of the Terra d'Otranto, in Apulia. Later it was capital of the province of Basilicata, a position it retained until 1806, when Joseph Bonaparte assigned it to Potenza.

In 1927 it became capital of the new province of Matera.

Government[edit]

Since local government political reorganization in 1993, Matera has been governed by the City Council of Matera. Voters elect directly 32 councilors and the Mayor of Matera every five years.

Main sights[edit]

The Sassi (ancient town)[edit]

Matera has gained international fame for its ancient town, the "Sassi di Matera". The Sassi originated in a prehistoric troglodyte settlement, and these dwellings are thought to be among the first ever human settlements in what is now Italy. The Sassi are habitations dug into the calcareous rock itself, which is characteristic of Basilicata and Apulia. Many of them are really little more than small caverns, and in some parts of the Sassi a street lies on top of another group of dwellings. The ancient town grew up on one slope of the rocky ravine created by a river that is now a small stream, and this ravine is known locally as "la Gravina". In the 1950s, as part of a policy to clear the extreme poverty of the Sassi, the government of Italy used force to relocate most of the population of the Sassi to new public housing in the developing modern city.

Until the late 1980s the Sassi was still considered an area of poverty, since its dwellings were, and in most cases still are, uninhabitable and dangerous. The present local administration, however, has become more tourism-orientated, and it has promoted the regeneration of the Sassi as a picturesque touristic attraction with the aid of the Italian government, UNESCO, and Hollywood. Today there are many thriving businesses, pubs and hotels there, and the city is amongst the fastest growing in southern Italy.


Then we want to fly to the Naples province to visit friends in Capo di Sorrento, Sant' Agata di due Gulfi, and in Napoli itself. From there we will spend a few days in Rome, again visiting friends, and walking around our favorite city in the world. Flights are already booking quickly. I will make a round trip booking, as I am coming back to Biancavilla the beginning of May and round trip vs one-way is hardly a price difference. But May means annual golf trips and other golf-related fun for Joe, so he will most likely join me a couple of weeks later. This works out just fine, since Nikos is planning to come here in early May for a brief stay in Sicily. With any luck, perhaps I will see John as well. I'm so giddy about it I can hardly sleep. Let's hope that monster, Covid, will keep its ugly head submerged.

And now the night has fallen hard and fast upon me, and morning comes darn early. I need plenty of energy to keep up with a two-year-old, but every creaky bone is worth it! It is fun to see the world through the eyes of a toddler again.

Hopefully tomorrow brings more excitement to report (the good kind!), and tonight I bid you a pleasant evening and a delightful tomorrow.

 

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