Dreams from Biancavilla

After a terrible night’s sleep and no hot water in the morning, we left our shitty B (there was no “&B) to check on the car. But first, “due cappucci” and some good cornetti at a bar called La Nuit, which I noticed had rolled up its sidewalk last night at about 9:30.  Since the mechanic told us to check in with him midday, we walked around Acquedolce a little more. “I’m glad you picked Capo d’Orlando, and not this, for our base,” Joe said. I had actually looked at Acquedolce when considering San Fratello and Grotto di Teodoro as the main hikes for this side trip. Fate. A pretty villa Garden store. I checked, but no tortorella seeds. I love these trees. And the sea. A crisis center, open 24 hours—with bikes …and raised gardens A coffee shop for twins More plane trees. A woman using a washboard, doing laundry outside Mural We smelled the street vendor before we saw him Bird of Paradise plants grow wild here Nuns at the politico boards We went back to get our things; I noticed they ha

We bid a fond farewell, after breakfast and long conversations with our hosts, Pasquale and Graziella, at La Collina in Capo d’Orlando. Pasquale is a caring, sensitive man. We shared Cuba stories. He was moved to tears recounting a conversation with a young boy, who, when Pasquale gave him 6 euro to buy lunch, and saw he was not eating, the boy explained he needs to feed his sisters and will share it with them. We talked about plants, building pergolas, the processions for Easter, the sweets of Messina and Napoli, and many other things, including our next stop, San Fratello. Pasquale confirmed what I had read; the town had its own Italo-Gallio (Gaul) language, with most of the town having Norman ancestry. They also have a particular type of horse there (only there), descended from those used by Norman knights.  Breakfast on the B&B’s terrace A Loto tree produces soft apples with a burst of flavor under the peel. And I like the downspout. Goodbye, Capo d’Orlando! We left with a warm