Sogni di Sicilia

Final Schengen days are sad days. We had an early breakfast with Nicolò, said our goodbyes (I’d come back here in a heartbeat), and drove to the airport. We had plenty of time, and made it to FCO and our hotel without much event. Joe called an Uber, since the next shuttle was an hour’s wait. And that was the best choice of the day, because Alessio, our driver, is priceless. We loaded up our suitcases into the van, and rode in relative silence for a few minutes, until we started speaking Italian with him and asking if he’s from Fiumicino. He is. Ok. On to food and dining questions. He got super excited after learning Joe’s background is half Calabrese, since that’s Alessio’s father’s region, and in fact they’re from the same area. “Cugini!” Joe exclaimed—they’re cousins! Alessio directed us to two places. Flash forward; the supper place, L’Osteria DER Pajata, is closed Sunday evenings. Bummer. Because the place he recommended for lunch was where I had multiple foodgasms, and I expected ...

It’s my name day! Buon Onomastico a me e tutti Caterina! Today we celebrate by visiting the little pocket towns along the coast. The first stop—and it was my favorite of them all—is an overwhelmingly charming seafront town called Giovinazzo. We got out of the car, started walking along the sea, and I noticed two women staring into the shallows. My curiosity got the better of me, so I clambered down the rocks to look. Nothing? I finally asked them what is the attraction here, and the daughter explained her mom just likes watching the little fish, the swirls in the water, and the changing colors. I said I understand that; it’s a world of its own, moving beneath the surface. Gotham City. Brava, the mom said. So we spent some time talking, learning mostly that these two women truly love their town. I can see why. Having explored Giovinazzo for over a couple of hours, and it wasn’t yet 11:30, we decided to move up the coast to Molfetta. Wow! Crowded! What’s going on here? And, more importan...