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Market & Tribunale

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Up for breakfast and half a crossword puzzle, then folded clothes from the line, and got ready to go to Joe's favorite, the Wednesday open-air market (said tongue-in-cheek). But I like it. It's the real Sicily. You see (and hear!) all sorts of people there, and often run into someone you know. In fact, we did. We saw Sara and Cesare, who hosted us around Bronte last year. They were leaving the market as we were arriving, and I thought she said see you later in the sense that we say bye for now, but as we got home, my phone rang. Sara called to ask where are you?! I feel awful about the misunderstanding. Hopefully we can reconnect soon. My Italian is in need of sharp reform. At the market, I noticed all the little offshoot streets, normally set up with vendors feeding zipper-style from the main stretch, were not there. In fact, the areas to the side were under some sort of major construction. I was reading earlier about a two-phase efficient railway system going into Biancavilla...

"L'estate di San Martino dura tre giorni e un pochinino"

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Joe, carrying bottles of wine inside a Lidl tote After communicating with our friends Steven and Silva, who have a house in Portugal, and looking up potential itineraries, I think we're set on visiting there before heading back to the US. As I was doing all that on my little handheld box, a message came in from Elena: Tonight at Mariella's. I'm assuming she means for Festa di San Martino. Just in case it's a party, I'll change out of my sweatshirt. Wanting to bring something for the event (including wine), I looked up traditional San Martino foods. It seems every region of Italy has their own specialty, the crossover being the castagne (chestnuts) and vino novello . In Sicily, Passito di Pantelleria , one of my most treasured elixirs to imbibe, is also common, as it replaces the typical vin santo that often accompanies the chestnuts on the mainland. As much as I love this family, I couldn't spend that much money for a Tuesday night. My digging for information ...

News Is Out

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I went to double-check something on my blog, and was directed to the main page (that I never bother to look at). My intro says that Ettore has a little brother (Matteo). And now, since everyone in Biancavilla and beyond knows, and apparently only three people read this blog, I can safely announce that there will be a new addition -- another boy, due in April! I'm excited about that, since I was planning to return in the spring. I asked Elena where they'll put a third child. Without missing a beat, she said, "In the pantry. You know the spazzatura (bins of sorted garbage/recycling)? Now it'll be paper, plastic, organics, baby." Dear Lord, please help me write a movie script where her character is the star. I once told her I'd try to do that. She didn't bother to look up from what she was doing as she commented, "I want to be portrayed by Anne Hathaway". I wish a had one etto of her wit! We caught up on news at home this morning, and a few small ...

Can't Button Pants

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I know there's this thing called willpower. Being able to say no. Or at least controlling portions. But when one course after another comes at me, and it's all so good, and I don't want to offend my host, even a little of this and a little of that really add up. I need to get more steps in today. Lunchtime started early. Rachele called us down. Vincenzo broke out his new gas BBQ, where he grilled sausage, burgers, and special Abruzzesi lamb spiedini, all to follow the orecchiette (from Bari), classically prepared with cima di rape and sausage. A mixed salad of crunchy ingredients, roasted potatoes, and wine were second-course accompaniments, with seasonal chocolate-y biscotti di morti (and Fernet Branca) for dessert. I no longer walk. I waddle. We took a nap after lunch, since we were in a food coma anyway. Joe woke before I did, and went upstairs. I followed not long afterward, to be greeted by the good old sounds of Agnese being rambunctious, and Ettore being her willing ...

Sabato... senza pizza

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Today is November 8, and in my mind I had tomorrow, the 9th, as the Festa di San Martino. Perhaps it's celebrated on the weekend, but the actual feast day is November 11th. Who cares? you may ask. San Martino is the patron saint of wine! And November is when the Novello is bottled and ready. A young, ready-to-drink, un-serious wine, whose French cousin is called Beaujolais Nouveau. Celebrating San Martino, however, isn't ageist, and wines from baby years such as Novello, all the way up to the heavily-vintaged bottles, are opened, drunk, and enjoyed. We celebrated at a sala during our very first tenure here, and Etna Wine Forum was last year, but other years-- nothing. We'll stay tuned to see if anything happens around here for it. Arrrghhhh and I can't help but lament that somewhere, sometime, during the course of our walk and errands, I lost my beloved coin medallion bracelet from an artisan jeweler in Lipari. Damn damn damn! But I'm trying to let it go and just b...