More on the Castle/Wine theme… sort of
We left for Adrano again, late morning, to venture inside the Norman castle that imposes over the main square of the city. I know that Biancavilla and Adrano have a friendly rivalry, and our friends are proud Biancavillans, but wow; do I love Adrano. I think the big open Centro Storico and the large Giardina della Vittoria park —not to mention the castle — make it breathe and flourish. The green space is a lovely respite.
On the drive into Adrano, I noticed what looks like a high-end wine shop. Why was I going all the way to Catania to hit up an enoteca? I suggested to Joe we take a walk to it after the castle tour.
We parked and paid, then I all but ran to the castle!
Look; Norman castles are not Versailles. They’re not even a 4-story mansion on Summit Avenue in St. Paul. But they’re sopping with history; they’re fortresses really, and given all the invasions Sicily has on its resume, one understands the beauty and purposes of a Norman castle. This particular one, built on ancient Saracen fortress footings around 1078, was a noble family’s home, a fortress, a prison (late 1600s to 1958!), and now a museum. If the walls could talk!
We began our self-guided tour. “Seguire il percorso giallo,” said the nice man at the desk. Follow the yellow marked road!
The entrance floor is basically divided into two parts, but, since nothing beckons me more than a mysterious path or a tucked-away stairwell, up, up, up we went. The artifacts and the layout are superbly done. The not-into-museum people and the history lovers will both be happy here. There are plenty of descriptions, all succinct and quick reads. The top floor houses art pieces.
At the top step, we pushed open a door, and I gasped. There’s nothing quite like being on a rooftop, mountaintop, treetop, or the like—anywhere up high, where you can see all around and below you. It doesn’t fail in the breathtaking category. Especially upon hitting daylight after a dark passage!
Today, although sunny and warm, had its share of fluffy clouds, which only added to the drama.
We stood up there, chatting with the docent woman. I commented on the great perfume in the air, and she pointed to Bar Europa, the pasticceria we were at yesterday. I told her we were there, and that it’s so hard for me, not to eat everything. It’s so good, but the aromas alone put centimeters on my thighs. She agreed, and said, But life is short. Eat while you can enjoy it. I love this woman. She has also worked in Villa Armerina, at the Casale Romano, famous for its intact ancient mosaics.
I walked the perimeter; the woman has a cameo appearance while talking with a scruffy Italian-speaking German who was touring the castle (I briefly talked with him earlier). Watch til the end.
After we exited the castle, Joe asked if we should grab a bite first, or check out the wine shop we saw on the drive in. I looked at my watch. If we hoofed it, we should get there before 1:00. Most places are open until then.
We walked through the beautiful park to get to the main road. At the corner of it, we turned right, near the gas station, following the street where we came into Adrano. In this case, the shop would be on our left. I know things seem longer to get to on foot than you think they would from driving it, but I kept asking Joe if we passed the shop. No, no, further down. I was starting to sweat. I don’t think it’s this far, I said. No; just a little further, he said. I looked up. But that’s Dèco! What? Yes! We’re almost in Biancavilla!! Do we having some implanted homing device that always takes us to Dèco?!
We turned back, not knowing how we missed it! We saw a couple of garage doors (like roll-top desk covers) closed; some had awnings. These could be shops, whose windows are covered by these rolling doors, or they could be garages. And, as I’ve often mentioned, it’s not as if they’re really big on signage around here, so we often don’t know which is which. We sighed and trudged back. Uphill.
At the gas station corner, right across from where we exited the park, Joe stopped and pointed. There was the wine store. Had we left the park and walked straight across the street instead of turning right, we would’ve smacked our faces into their window. We missed it. But, after our Dèco expedition time, they were closed.
We have yet another trip to make to Adrano, to check it out. I also noticed a plant nursery behind Dèco— I want to buy seeds. Two stops.
We decided to go to Tomaselli Bar & Pasticceria, since we were at Bar Europa yesterday. We ordered granitas and sat on the patio. And, had I not wanted to waste one drop of it, my jaw would’ve otherwise dropped and hit the table. Spectacular. The best granita I’ve tasted to this day. We each had half almond, half pistachio, and if I had Nonno’s gift of poetry, I’d write an ode to it.
That, along with its accompanying brioche, was lunch.
Another fun day with Ettore; Aziza arriving again and staying a while this time. Ettore enjoyed having us both play with him.
When they left, we started happy hour (although for me, that was bottled water), and warmed up the patchwork of leftovers we need to make go away this week. And we still have some of the slab of Mariella’s delicious schiacciata, which alone would’ve been the perfect dinner for me.
Tonight, I hope to wrap things up and get to bed at a decent hour.
If only I had a euro for every time I said that.
Comments
Post a Comment