Buona Pasqua!

 

The cannons went off again early this morning. As Joe said, “We got a good four hours of sleep in”. I don’t know how these people survive! Elena and family were out until 4 a.m.! We did manage to fall back asleep after the cannons, but evidently Ettore was at large, because we heard everyone yelling for him and slamming doors in the echo chamber that is the stairwell. At one point Elena knocked at our door. I was so tired, I answered in Italian (Elena and I speak English to each other). But it was a logical place to search.

We caffeinated for a short while before showering and getting dressed for the day. I chose not to wear what I brought for Easter, and wore a warmer, dressy outfit and heels (although it got warm and I later regretted my outfit decision).

At noon we walked to the already jam-packed piazza to see another spettacolo. Today is all light and laughter and shining happiness. It’s a warm, beautiful day.

Festive crowds

Jesus has left the building 

The spettacolo in the piazza — remember that Mary is quite present throughout the Easter rituals — illustrates the joy of Mary seeing Jesus, and vice versa. Even the angel is happy (the statues do a happy dance). The whole town showed up, and the spettacolo was performed once at the Mother Church, fireworks included, then once at the Church of the Anunciata.

Btw the bar across from the church was open, and Prosecco was flowing in to-go glasses.

Firework haze

Green fireworks

Jesus meets his mom, who’s so happy to see him, they do the double-cheek kiss

In the shorter video, you hear Maria Teresa, Agnese’s mom, after telling her to leave Joe alone, saying “Povero Joseph,” Poor Joseph.

Poor Agnese. We’re always getting her into trouble.

Maria Teresa, Agnese’s mom

We then followed the procession (me, in high heels, on cobblestones) to the Church of the Annunziata, where it was performed again. The latter had a few banner and cross ceremonies, and a marching band.

Sidebar: If Europe is a precursor for American fashion, then the 80s colors of sapphire blue, emerald green, fuschia, and pale lavender are on their way!

Our beautiful family—Elena, Ettore, Giuseppe, Matteo

Vibrant gemstone colors en vogue

There’s a selfie taker in every crowd, although this may be the first non-tourist I’ve seen doing it. Then again, maybe she’s a tourist.

Balcony seats 

Blue, green, pink

We were too close

I love that people are groomed here

Antonio, Maria Teresa’s dad. In the procession, he spotted us and stopped the parade momentum 

to give us Easter kisses

She didn’t pose. This just comes naturally!

Even the oldsters got the fashion memo

14-yr-old gangly dudes, but well groomed

Cute kids in Easter duds

When all this finally ebbed, we walked home, timing it to meet the rest of the family in front of the house as they did the same.

Now we are off to the restaurant, or “sala,” a large reception/party place with a fixed menu for Easter. Father Giuseppe joined us, and we took two cars. It is in the hills, close to the family’s vineyard house.

As we got out of the cars in the parking lot, one of the kids (they were both up past 4 am) was having a meltdown, calmed a bit, then the other one started in, then Elena strung a bunch of Sicilian words at Giuseppe as he wrangled Ettore into the stroller. He walked (towered—he’s over 6 ft tall) next to us, saying softly and in measure, in English, as the kids’ wails crescendoed, “Music,” he said. “First, one starts, and when he stops, the other continues it,” and, after a pause, “and when he’s finished, then Elena. Music.”

The eternity-long table was for us, Father Giuseppe, and all of Giuseppe Greco’s family.

We had a multi-course meal, starting with a mixed cheese-salumi-olive-caponata plate. Next, a pistachio pesto ravioli stuffed with what we guessed was a mushroom mixture. Next, casarecce pasta with a suino nero di Nebrodi sauce, which tasted a lot like pot roast. The main course was a wheel of polpettone wrapped in a smoky pancetta and accompanied by roasted vegetables and bread. Lastly, a gelato bombe that was zabaione layered with chocolate. Caffe, amaro, grappa, limoncello. 

Ravioli with pistachio pesto

The aftermath at our table

Suino nero di Nebrodi sauce

Matteo ate most of Elena’s meal

Matteo slept the least and ate the most. Happy kid.

Iside, Giuseppe G’s niece, takes a nap 

on a makeshift bed of 2 dining chairs 

It was good, and the place is beautiful, but Mariella’s cooking is a little more than 1000 times better. Although if we had this meal in the states, we’d be pleasantly surprised. Everything is relative.

Father Giuseppe took one of the cars we used to get our group here—his own—since he had another Mass to officiate. Giuseppe Greco rearranged the car seats and stroller, putting one in the back seat next to Elena (aka my spot). “And Karen?” Elena asked him. Giuseppe turned to us, and said Joe will drive. But how are you getting home? Joe asked. “Walking,” he answered, smiling, holding up one finger in thought (Ettore crying in background), “…it should be one hour. Maybe more,” but then patted Joe on the shoulder and said he’s getting a ride from his parents.

We got in, I put on my pjs, wrote some of this, talked to Nikos (bad connection), video called Lori-Doug-John-Mom during their Easter gathering, and Maria called me during her law school class break (yes; even on Easter Sunday) to wish me a Happy Early Birthday tomorrow.

At least someone remembered!

Buona Pasqua! Happy Easter! And tomorrow is Pasquetta—Little Easter. More food!